Coat



M. PALEY May l6 E950 COAT Filed March 20, 1947 INVENTOR Maurice Paky BY v d/PU( fm ATTORNEYS .y

Patented May 16, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT UFFICE COAT MauricePaley, New York, N.'Y.

Application March A20, 1947, Serial No. 736,061

2 Claims.

The present invention is concerned with double duty outer coats and more especially with ladies coats of the type comprising .an inner coat readily removable from the combined garment to adapt the same for wear in more temperate weather.

As conducive to a clear understanding of the invention,it is noted that in order to `avoid undue bulk in winter wear it is desirable that the inner coat be fitted rather snugly at its edge to the border of the inturned facing of the outer coat. With such snug fit, however, the coat in wear serves in a manner of speakingas a strait-jacket, since it affords inadequate freedom `of arm and shoulder movement.

'It is .among'the objects of the invention to pro- 'vide .a garment of the above type which will present no excessive bulk or llumpiness and will .give no .conspicuous evidence of the double thickness .of .coat as wornin winter, which lends itself to embodiment in any of a variety of styles, even in theplaingtailored, unpleated body-fitting type of coat, and yet affords complete freedom of arm and .shoulder movement without excessive strain on the seams or fabric, and which, after accommodating vigorous arm and shoulder movement of the wearer, will show no disarray as a consequence of such movement but inherently maintains its well-groomed appearance.

`In the vaccompanying drawings `in which is shown one of various possible embodiments of the several. features of the invention,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view .showing the composite vcoat for winter wear with the wearer manipulating the hooirless fastener,

"Fig. 2 is a perspective View of the lfront of the `inner coat member,

Fig. 3 is .a View similar to Fig. 2, vshowing .a rear View'of said inner coat member,

Fig. 4 is a view on .a greatly enlarged scale of the inner upper zarea of the inner coat body, as shown in Fig. 2,

Fig. .Sis a .transverse sectional view taken along line 5-5 of Fig. 4 and on a still larger scale and Fig. 6 is afragmentary .View on a larger scale taken on line 6-6 of Fig.`1.

vRe'ferringnow to the drawings, the'd'ouble duty coat is of the general type comprising'anlouter coat Ill and an .innercoat AI I both preferably of wool or the like. The outer coat preferably has a lining I2 of silk, rayon, mohair, or like coat 'lining material, which lining is attached to the preferably"has-an4 outer portion l 5' of lining matefi'ial 'similar yto lining I2.

vPreferably the 4inner .coat has no .collar but has sleeves I6 desirably with cuffed wrist ends The width of the inner .coat is preferably substantially equal to the span between the inturned facing lportions I3 of the outer coat, so that when the inner coat is removably attached to said facing portions it will span snugly therebetween without folds or lumping due to extra material. Desirably the attachment is by hookless ffastener' means. One slide fastener chain lli is on the outer coat Vand extends along the entire border of the facing I3 and "is preferably concealed below a welt strip I9 at the .edge of ,said facing. The complementary slide fastener chain '2e of the inner coat extends along the entire length of its inner edge. Thus when the two coats are assembled for winter wear, the inner coat spans snugly between the lateral facing lengths along the inner face of the outer coat; the sleeves l of the inner vcoat will embrace-the wristof the wearer with the sleeves 2| of the outer .coatextending in normal wear thereover, andthe lining material I5 at the exterior of the inner coat is against the lining material I2 at the interior of the outer coat.

.According to the invention, the inner coat lis Vprovided with extra material, preferably along a wedge shaped area arranged symmetricallyat the middle of the back from the collar line ydownward for a length in the order of one foot. It is this extra material which accommodates vigorous arm and shoulder movement of the wearer and it is so arranged ,as normally to lie flat without 'bulging or lumping preferably in appropriate 'folds and to be self restoring to flat condition under the weight of the coat after distention under such arm or shoulder movement.

In the specific embodiment shown, the woolltype fabric of the inner-coat has a wedge shaped cutout 22, Apreferably a triangular cut-out, extending symmetrically thereof from the upper border thereof for a vdistance preferably in the vorder of one foot, in the preferred embodiment `a Ltriangular cut-out coming to an apex 23. Thiscutout is filled with aninsert'Zf rdesirably of wool or worsted or similar fabric considerably thinner than that Aof the coat, but considerably thicker Uthan'that ofthe lining. That insert-is preferably a'tria-ngular piece of height equal to that ofthe cut--outbut Iof width considerablygreater than that ofthe cut-out to provide the extra material required for accommodating arm and shoulder movement. In-a preferred embodiment lthe'triangular insert is folded lengthwise to provide pleats 25, so that said larger insert when so `foldedwillpresenta shape and areacorresponding-to that of fthe cut-out. To -form such-pleats `the insert material is preferably folded inward laterally along oblique fold lines 26 and then outwardly along upright fold lines 2'| which are substantially in abutment as shown along the altitude of the folded triangular insert. 'Ihe edges of the insert being stitched at 28 to the main fabric |4 at the edges of the cut-out 22, the inverted apex 23 of the insert will have its pleats anchored thereat. The upper or outer ends of the pleats at the border or collar line of the coat are also anchored in place so that they cannot spread at that region. For this purpose the fabric strip 20' of the slide fastener chain 20 is anchored at reinforce fold 29 by stitching along the length of the border of the coat I I and to the upper edge of the insert 24.

The lining |'5 of the inner coat is preferably made with a cut-out 30 identical with and registering with that of the main fabric of the inner coat and into said cut-out is stitched an insert 3| of material identical with that of the lining and of area and pleated form identical with that of the coat fabric insert 24. Said lining insert pleats are anchored at the upper or rim edge by the same means as anchors the upper or rim edge of the pleats of the main insert 24. Said anchoring means is preferably the stitching 32 for the slide fastener chain 20 afilxing the upper or wider end both of the coat fabric insert 24 and of the lining insert 3|. As shown in the drawings, the upright fold edges 21 and 21 of the abutting pleats of the main insert 24 and the lining insert 3| respectively are exposed and the connecting Iwebs 33 and 33 respectively of said pleats are concealed between the inner coat and its lining.

When the combined coat is worn, the inner coat will extend without appreciable slack between the lateral facing lengths of the outer coat and the outer coat will completely conceal from view the pleated inserts of the inner coat and if that outer coat is of square cut tailored type it gives no evidence n its appearance in wear of the pleats in the inner coat. Under vigorous arm and shoulder movement, the inner coat which is snugly fitted to the body will distend at the pleats 25 of the insert and the corresponding pleats of the lining fabric thereof. The pleats have sufficient extra material to permit such distention preferably of the order of six or seven inches transversely of the coat along the shoulder line and almost as much along the pleated insert below the shoulder line. Thus destructive strain on seams and on fabric is obviated, regardless how vigorous the arm and shoulder movement. The fabric of the insert 24 by virtue of its thinness as compared to the main fabric |4 retains the folds of its pleats and the three-ply thickness determined by the infolded pleats 25 superimposed over the connecting inner ply or web 33 conjointly will occupy substantially the thickness of the thicker main fabric |4 of the inner coat, thus avoiding lumping at that region. Upon the wearer coming to rest after such arm or shoulder movement the weight of the coat will cause the pleated inserts 24 and 3| automatically to fall back to normal infolded position so that no disarray occurs and no adjustment is required to restore the coat to properly groomed condition.

As many changes could be made in the above construction, and many apparently widely different embodiments of this invention could be made without departing from the scope of the claims, it is intended that all matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawings shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

l.. A. coat member comprising a main fabric of relatively heavy material and a relatively thin linnig of lining material, said members being secured together in a unitary structure, each of the main fabric and the lining fabric having a triangular cut-out symmetrically thereof extending downward a distance of the order of a foot from the upper rim, inserts lling the respective cut-outs, the insert of the main fabric being of fabric thinner than said main fabric and thicker than the fabric of the lining, the inseiil of the lining being of lining fabric, each of said inserts being triangular in shape, of height equal to that of the cut-out, but of width considerably greater than that of the cut-out, each of said inserts having a pair of pleats of depth diverging from the apex to the base of the respective triangular areas with their fold edges substantially in abutment along the mid-section thereof, the inserts in thus folded pleated condition corresponding in area to the respective cut-outs and being stitched in place at the respective cut-outs with the abutiing folds of the pleats at the respective exposed sides of the coat, said coat member having binder means along the upper edge thereof anchoring the pleats of both the main and the lining fabric inserts against distention.

2. A double-duty coat of the type comprising an outer coat having an inturned facing along the sides and top thereof and a slide fastener chain extending the entire length of said facing, an inner coat of width equal to the span between the lateral portion of said slide fastener chain and having a complementary slide fastener chain extending along the entire edge thereof for snug but removable connection of the two coats, the main fabric of said inner coat having a triangular cut-out extending from its upper rim downward along the mid-section thereof, and an insert of fabric extending along the inner face of said inner coat, said insert being thinner than said main fabric and of area considerably larger than that of said cut-out, said insert being pleated to define substantially the area of said cut-out, the outer face of said inner coat being of lining material and presenting a cut-out substantially registering with the cut-out in the main fabric of said inner coat, said cut-out having an insert of lining material of substantially the same pleated construction as said inner coat insert, said inner coat having a reinforce associated with the slide fastener chain and extending with said slide fastener chain along and affixed to the upper edge portions of said two inserts and fastening the respective pleats of said inserts together at said upper edge portions.

MAURICE PALEY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS 

